An Otterly Wonderful Two Night Stay in Moss Landing

I was anxious to sit on the back deck. We had finally made it to begin our stay in Moss Landing. And, as often happens in a new place, it was taking way longer than normal to get the boys to sleep. Fighting over sleeping arrangements ensued with the older two before Little Sis eventually clambered into Big Bro’s room to sleep. It was actually a very sweet first occurrence. BUT I wanted to sit on the back deck. I was going to sit on that back deck…. 

By the time I made it out there, it was pitch black and damp. But sitting on the plastic Adirondack chair, I could hear waves crashing and sea lions calling in the distance. I closed my eyes and soaked in the soft sounds echoing in the silence – something that very rarely surrounds me these days – and let the tension release.

The ocean has long been Derek and my happy place: the water, the salt breeze, the wildlife, the cool temps. With thoughts of the Monterey Bay Aquarium in our heads, we planned a two night stay in Moss Landing. Moss Landing is a small town situated about halfway between Santa Cruz and Monterey along the California coast, right off of iconic Highway 1. There are only a few options for accommodation, given the town’s size. I was very happy to find Captain’s Inn.

Where to Stay: Captain’s Inn

A location steeped in history, Captain’s Inn is comprised of three buildings with a variety of nautically themed rooms available. For the most part, the rooms have a two person capacity, but we were lucky enough to book one of the two suites available. 

The Dock Holiday Suite sleeps six guests total with a full kitchen, living area and back deck overlooking the grounds and the Elkhorn Slough… and it was just perfect for our family of six. Encompassing the entire top floor of one of the three buildings, I was surprised and delighted by the amount of space afforded to us. We were able to open up Little Bro’s pack ‘n play in the master bedroom with more than enough space to still walk about. It felt like a miracle.

Relaxation is the name of the game at Captain’s Inn. Quiet hours are posted from 8:30pm until 9:00am which was initially a stressor for us. With a toddler running around and an infant still refusing to sleep through the night, we definitely expected a knock on the door complete with a list of complaints. This obviously did not happen. We eventually realized that the inn had smartly combined the two family suites into one building.

There is WIFI available, but it is slow and doesn’t always like to connect, as well as Dish TV with limited channels. Instead, the grounds invite you to leave your electronics behind and enjoy the environment on display. I loved it. There were plenty of things for all of us to do.

1. Look for Wildlife in Elkhorn Slough

Elkhorn Slough sits right behind Captain’s Inn and was a great source of entertainment for the entire family. With the largest area of salt marshland and highest concentration of Southern sea otter, wildlife viewing became the number one activity for the weekend. From spying a variety of birds flying by to spotting otters floating through the water, there are plenty of reasons to pack your binoculars. The balcony off the back of the Dock Holiday Suite provided patio furniture to sit and drink a hot beverage while watching for animals. Alternatively, a decent-sized community deck was set up on the edge of the property, closer to the slough. Just keep in mind the posted quiet hours.

2. Visit the Moss Landing Harbor

The Moss Landing Harbor is down the road from Captain’s Inn, perfectly within walking distance. It was a ton of fun looking at all the different kinds of boats anchored in the harbor. And, the bridge over the water just next to the harbor provided the perfect spot for watching sea otters. During our late afternoon walk to the harbor, we stopped and watched no fewer than three sea otters swimming, diving and playing with each other. The delight on Big Bro’s face was worth any initial complaints from the kids about the chill in the air. The Moss Landing Harbor is also home-base for many whale watching tours. We haven’t been on one yet, but there appear to be several to choose from.

3. Pay Respects to Mr. Enchilada

As noted previously, Moss Landing is home to an abundance of Southern sea otters. Mr. Enchilada was one such beloved sea otter, frequently crossing the road between the slough and the harbor near the popular Whole Enchilada restaurant. In the summer of 2016, he was killed after being hit by a car. This spurred changes to protect the otter population of Moss Landing with the first sea otter crosswalk being constructed across Moss Landing Road. Both speed tables and Sea Otter Crossing signs accompany the crosswalk to alert drivers, including visiting tourists. Moss Landing is an amazing place to introduce your children to the beauty of natural wildlife, as well as the importance of conservation efforts. This is a concrete example of attempts to protect an endangered population.

4. Visit the Ocean at Moss Landing State Beach

A brief walk from Captain’s Inn landed us at Moss Landing State Beach… if you looked hard enough, you could see the beach entrance from the back deck of our suite. The beach itself is beautiful and quiet, but very windy. The sand whipped up by the wind made getting over the hill to come down to the beach more difficult, especially with the young boys. However, it was totally worth it after making it through to the shore. Despite the wind, the girls and Big Bro enjoyed the opportunity to run free along the sand, chasing birds and watching the waves. The water isn’t suitable for swimming – signage is posted everywhere regarding dangerous riptides – but the views are idyllic. In October, it was cold, but still a good time.

Where to Get Your Coffee

We fueled up at The Power Plant Coffee. Derek can’t resist a pun (and if I’m being honest, neither can I). This coffee shop also features a store with baked goods, books and apothecary offerings. Plants hang out in every corner and on all the horizontal surfaces. Indoor and outdoor tables are available, but both areas kind of feel like drinking your coffee outdoors. Our coffee orders were delicious: iced, hot and decaf… we tried them all.

What I Would Do Differently Next Time

With our large family, it is a struggle finding space to pack belongings to take on trips. Our beloved Subaru Ascent is easy to drive for a larger vehicle but does not provide a huge amount of trunk space. This trip, however, highlighted the necessity for remedying this issue. The next time we visit Moss Landing, even for a quick two night trip, I will definitely be packing food to cook our own meals.

Our first morning in Moss Landing, we set out for our first walk of several to grab a coffee and some breakfast. The local Moss Landing Cafe was our destination in mind. The cafe itself turned out to be a small, one-room affair without anything resembling a large table. We were relegated to a tent out back which worked out fine. However, it definitely felt like we were putting out the staff as we pushed tables together.

As dinnertime approached, we attempted to pick up an order from the highly advertised Whole Enchilada restaurant down the road. However, a call to the establishment on a Saturday evening revealed that they were not accepting take-out orders. Instead, we ate a delicious dinner from the Lemongrass Thai restaurant downtown. Little Bro loudly protested over Little Sis “stealing” some of his Pad See Ew noodles (it was a very healthy portion), and the pineapple fried rice was a hit. It would overall be easier (and cheaper) to bring our own food next time.

Months later, I still hear from Little Sis about how much she loved the small town feel of Moss Landing. The fog rolling in over the slough and the call of the sea lions feature in my memories during quiet moments. Isn’t that why we travel? With or without kids, our adventures and memories feed our souls, and Moss Landing provided some well needed nourishment.